Tecnam P2006T

Other than the retraction/extension times, they appear to have addressed most of the issues. Still think the flight model is a little overpowered, and still not convinced by the 'systemology' of the a/p, but it's a nice little go-er, as they say.

Full list of changes;

I was looking for a light twin to do the southern route from Europe to USA and frankly, there aren't too many high wing twins in that class to choose from - the low-wing twins such as Carenado's Seneca V and Real Air's Duke being highly capable of everything except sightseeing as you've got two engines and a wing blocking the view! I've got the procedural models and singles but they aren't hat I was looking for for this trip - A2A for example I sometimes just do the walkround and the hangar checks like a coddling owner who isn't going to the airfield to fly, but likes to pamper his Piper at the weekend. 

I'm sure that I've got many aircraft in the hangar that would make the trip easy (be a breeze at 50K with the Canberra!) but now they've actually got a IFR-equipped platform, the Wilco bird will do just fine.

You were asking about the a/p over at Avsim...

Only vnav button that works is 'Alt'. Dont use the v/s as it doesn't. Engage ALT and see a default rate of climb of 700 ft/min, adjust from there. It also switches on the a/p Master switch if its pressed. It's not correct, but for the money, I'm not fussed. To level off, simply reduce ROC to '0' - takes a bit of practice to land on precisely the right altitude, as the response is quite slow, so reduce to 100 ft/min about 200 feet before the desired altitude and tweak it in from there. It's part of its charm...

As for the gear extension and retraction times here's the changes you need to make on the aircraft .cfg - I've gone for 11-13 seconds as that's close to real.

I've also posted my other changes to the .cfg as the Tecnam still only has 200 hp and Wilco's still accelerates way too fast from rest and climbs at a silly climb rate and angle, when the real thing climbs at 80-90. Mine maintains 1,000 fpm through about 4,500 ft, then you need to begin to reduce it from there or else speed bleeds below 90. As with the real aircraft, stick closer to 100 kts for a lower deck angle and better view over the nose. After take off keep throttles pinned, and just reduce the props to max continuous of about 2,300 rpm.

These changes soften the delivery, but still offer a max cruise of around 140 kts, with a standard cruise at 2,000 rpm/24" (or full throttle, whichever is the lower) of about 130. I've also removed the reference to structural anti-ice - the aircraft has none. And I've removed the extra two bums on seats - the aircraft is pictured with just pilot and passenger, so I've taken the backseat pax out by default. It's closer to the real world and normal operations, and allows 100 percent fuel, which is what any Rotax owner does anytime they can - filling up with mogas!

Note: This IS NOT the full aircraft .cfg just the bit after the aircraft and camera entries. 

What I suggest you do is save this to a text file, copy the top part of your aircraft .cfg to this, then rename the original to a backup, save this new one as aircraft .cfg and drop it into the aircraft folder, so you can always go back to the original.

Finally, some twonk in the same forum was whining about the aircraft going cold and dark when you cut fuel to kill the engines: Someone tell the fool that Rotax's are switched off by turning them off on the overhead switches, like a car ignition, not like antiquated angle iron engineering from the steam age. Fuel is only turned off in the Rotax after the engine is switched off. It's correctly notated in the Checklist.

And yes, the aircraft does have auto mixture, and yes you do only use the chokes for the first flight of the day when everything is stone cold. And carb heat is OFF when forward/up, ON when down/back (the ergonomy is "everything forward for flight"). Unfortunately the tooltip doesn't work on either carb heat or choke, so it's better to simply get it right.

And finally, if the engine wont start after using the menu 'Avionics on' option, cycle the overhead ignition switches again, and it will start right up on the button. Funnily enough, I had a real Katana that needed the same trick! 

If I could be bothered I'd tweak it further and modify the .air file too, but it's close enough for my needs and the money paid. 

I just wish they'd finish the job with the night textures in the o/head (the incorrect orientation for the fuel switches returns when the night lights are on).

Still hoping someone will do the G950 version, as that is the most common variant.